Tregriffian Cove a hidden gem.
What a cracking little venue with the majority of the routes on solid granite slabs below HVS, bloody brill.
Main Slab
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As has been mentioned already new routes are believed to have been climbed on a small slab on the North coast of Cornwall at New Polzeath. Four routes have now been climbed from VD to VS 5a. The lower grade routes provide some easy slab climbing leading into some unpleasant steep grass!
’1906′ is a lovely HS 4b which follows the only crack running two-thirds of the way up the longest part of the slab. ‘Black rain’ is a cracking VS 5a although an eliminate this is a great slab route running to the left of 1906… Black rain was so named as the top quarter was climbed in the rain and the rock really does turn into ice in the rain due to the black lichen covering the rock.
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With the sun shining and the crag sheltered from the wind we were set for a great winters day climbing in West Penwith. With two newbies coming along on the days climbing Alan and Jim were set for a nice intro into the CCCC!
Paddy, Phil and James were all content to layback and have a relaxing
climbing. Staring on some nice little V diffs the quality of climbing at Bosigran never ceases to please. Climbing Kate and In – Between two parties bimbled up the crag with a relaxing pace. Following a cuppa Black slab was climbed by all and after Alan and Jim lowered off to get home to bed early James, Paddy and Phil continued on up the second pitch of Ochre slab climbing the overhanging chimney at VS5a.
A great day out and a great start to the year…
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Paddy and myself have just returned from a flying visit to Scotland. A 5 day trip really was not long enough but hey ho. We climbed in the Cairngorms and Glen Coe. Three great days climbing with great weather. We travelled up in Paddy’s van which became our home for the week! Very snug with all our climbing gear and us..
Dead Dolphin Direct was climbed on 9th October 2009 by Nigel (seconded by james!). The route takes a direct line to the route climbed by Pete and James about 4 years ago. The original line climbed the overhanging corner up the slab and belayed from a ut key and mud bollard! The new line takes the impressive overhang following the obvious line of holds onto the slab above. The Slab was as impressively loose as the first ascent and Nigel did well to find a handful of throwaway placement to keep the rope running in a nice line!
Graded at HVS 5a the grading was given for the start which was a great boulder problem…. the HVS for the loose rock above. Nigel has his first tick and although not a 3 star classic a new route has been claimed.
well done Nigel
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Our technaphobic Phill has only gone and done it, yes thats it he has discovered the world of bloging! watch this space to see how he gets on! Phill a keen radio geek has set up a small blog site detailing what he is about and what he is able to offer. http://phillmatthews.wordpress.com is the address to his cyber space base or follow the links from Phill’s biog.
