Coastguard Cliffs is located on the Lizard headland and is easily located as the area below a bench located beyond a drystone wall. The area is made up of two crags, Tower butress and Hollywood walls.There are a number of enviromental concerns as the area is rich in plants such as Fringed Rupturewort, Thyme Broomrape and English Stonecrop to name a few. The Climbers club guide book should be read so all enviromental concerns can be fuly appreciated.
Hollywood walls has had 3 new routes put up on the small head wall above the large ledge on the descent to the Hollywood Walls.
Radio Head S 4a – 12m. From the large ledge on holywood walls descent. Start on the left arete below a small overhang. Climb the small overhang to a crack, follow this into the groove. Climb up and left to the hanging arete above. Climb the wall on the left. Belay well back with nuts ( There are a number of nut placements to be found on the summit rocks) This rock may well have been climbed previously but no record can be found!
Battle with an old mans beard HS 4b – 12m. From the large ledge on the descent of Holywood walls. Climb the centre of the wall sing the obvious crock line. Follow this to the large ledge above (some care needed with loose/fragile rock). From the large ledge cotinue climbing through the plate like rock above. Nut belays well back on summit rock can be hard to find.. This is an obvious line and may have been climbed before but no record can be found.
Lifeboat Callout VS 4c – 12m. From the large ledge on the descent to holywood wall. Climb the wall to the left of the obvious crack line (battle with an old mans beard!). Climb to an obvious large hold at around 10′. From this continue directly above to the large ledge and join the final part of the previous route. Gear is better than it looks from below although care is required, small wires useful along with friend placements in unusual pockets..
View Larger Map
