Day 3 Stob Coire nan Lochan – Dorsal Arete

 

A drive from Aviemore last evening led us into the Glen Coe valley. We spent the night pulled up into an unclassified road not the most scenic of locations but a great spot only 5 minutes from the car park for Stb Coire nan Lochan.

We had a late start today (well 6am!) a good fry up and mug of tea soon got us sorted and we were off! The car park was busy with climbers including a party from Plas Y Brenin and thier charasmatic and personable instructor (Thats sarcasm by the way…) Myself and Paddy had allowed about 2 hours for the walk in which did not look too bad!!!! how wrong were we….. very :(

After 2 hours of waling and Paddy throwing himself over every 10 minutes we were still no where near the crag! With my lungs left somewhere far below me we clawed ourway into the base of the Coire. We eventualy came to a steep snow slope which led us into Lochan and an amazing view of the crag. Yet again we had the most amazing weather, clear blue skies and miles of visablity truly stunning weather.

We could clearly see our planned route Dorsal Arete with about 10 climbers already making thier way up it! We decided that waiting in the sun was the best plan so an early lunch and T stop was called. We started the route at about 14:00hrs, late in terms of winter climbing but we were not to be diheartend.

The route was made of 5 pitches and every one was a lure joy. The first 4 pitches were made of steep snow pitches with the final mixed pitch being climbed by Paddy. The last pitch consisted of a traverse of a razor sharp ridge made up of various pinicales.

A late finish ended a great day and a long drive back to Cornwall..

 

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